The Real Safety Situation (Not Fear-Mongering)
How Safe Is BA Really?
Let's cut through the noise. Buenos Aires is safer than most major US cities. Full stop. The homicide rate in BA is around 4-5 per 100,000 residents. Compare that to Chicago (18), Philadelphia (30), or New Orleans (70+). You're statistically safer walking around Palermo at 2am than you are in many American downtown areas.
The difference? In the US, you worry about violent crime. In BA, you worry about petty theft. It's annoying, not life-threatening.
Crime Statistics vs. Perception
Argentina has a peculiar relationship with crime reporting. The media sensationalizes everything. A phone snatching becomes "INSEGURIDAD EN AUMENTO" on the evening news. This creates a perception that the city is more dangerous than it actually is.
Here's what the numbers actually show: violent crime against tourists is rare. Most incidents are opportunistic theft—someone sees an easy target and takes a chance. It's not personal, it's business.
What Actually Happens
Let me break down the reality:
- Phone snatching: The most common issue. Someone on a motorcycle grabs your phone while you're texting at a traffic light. Happens in every neighborhood.
- Pickpocketing: Classic distraction techniques in crowded areas. Subte during rush hour, busy sidewalks, tourist spots.
- Bag snatching: Leaving your bag on the back of a chair at a café is an invitation. Someone walks by, grabs it, gone in seconds.
- Violent crime: Extremely rare for tourists. Armed robbery happens but usually targets locals in specific situations (leaving banks, jewelry stores, etc.).
Why the "Dangerous" Reputation Is Overblown
Buenos Aires suffers from Argentina's economic narrative. When the economy tanks, crime stories dominate the news. Visitors read these reports and assume the city is dangerous. Then they arrive and find people drinking wine in parks at midnight, kids playing football in the streets, and a general vibe of normal urban life.
The other factor: Latin American cities get lumped together. People hear "Latin America" and think of cartel violence or political instability. BA is not Medellín in the 90s. It's not Caracas. It's a European-style city with Latin American chaos, not danger.
Personal Stories: Unsafe vs. Safe
Times I Felt Unsafe
- Walking through Retiro bus station at 11pm. Empty, poorly lit, sketchy characters hanging around. I took an Uber the rest of the way.
- Got followed for two blocks in San Telmo late at night. Crossed the street, entered a busy restaurant, problem solved.
- Accidentally wandered into a villa (shantytown) near La Boca. Realized immediately, turned around, walked out. Nothing happened, but I shouldn't have been there.
Times I Felt Completely Safe
- Walking home alone at 2am in Palermo Soho after dinner. Streets were busy with people, restaurants still open, felt totally fine.
- Leaving my laptop at a café to use the bathroom. Came back, laptop still there. (Don't do this, but I've done it dozens of times.)
- Taking the Subte at midnight. Full of normal people going home from work or going out. Never had an issue.
- Every single day walking around Recoleta, Puerto Madero, or Palermo during daylight. These neighborhoods are as safe as any European city.
Common Scams (Detailed)
The "Mustard Scam" (or Bird Poop Scam)
Someone "accidentally" spills mustard, ketchup, or fake bird poop on your shoulder or bag. They "helpfully" offer to clean it off. While you're distracted, an accomplice grabs your bag or picks your pocket.
If someone suddenly points out a stain on you, be immediately suspicious. Real stains don't appear out of nowhere with a helper ready to assist.
Keep walking. Say "no gracias" firmly. Don't let anyone touch you or your belongings. If they persist, make a scene. Go into the nearest shop to clean yourself.
Taxi Overcharging (Especially from the Airport)
Taxi drivers at Ezeiza airport target tired, confused tourists. They'll quote an inflated flat rate (often $50-80 USD when it should be $30-40), claim the meter is "broken," or take the long route. Some have rigged meters that run fast.
The driver approaches you inside the terminal (legitimate drivers wait outside at official stands). They quote a price before you get in. The meter is "conveniently" not working.
Best option: Book a remis (private car service) in advance—Tienda León or Manuel Tienda León are reputable. Fixed price, no hassle. Second best: Use Uber or Cabify. If taking a taxi: Go to the official taxi stand outside customs. Insist on the meter. A ride to Palermo/Recoleta should cost 25,000-35,000 pesos (as of 2024, check current rates).
Fake Police Officers
Someone approaches claiming to be police, flashes a badge, and asks to see your passport/wallet to "check for counterfeit money" or verify your identity. They either steal your documents and demand a "fine" to return them, or they simply take your money and run.
Real police in Argentina rarely approach tourists randomly. They won't ask to see your wallet or money. Plainclothes officers should show official ID with photo. The "check for counterfeit bills" is a dead giveaway—it's not a thing.
Never hand over your wallet or passport. Say you'll go to the nearest police station or your embassy. Walk away. If they're persistent, yell "¡Policía!" loudly. Real police won't mind you verifying; scammers will leave quickly.
The Friendship Bracelet Scam
Someone (often in San Telmo or La Boca) approaches and quickly ties a "friendship bracelet" around your wrist before you can react. Then they demand payment—often aggressively. If you refuse, they may cause a scene or have accomplices pressure you.
Anyone approaching with string, bracelets, or anything to put on your body. They're fast—you might not even see it coming until it's on your wrist.
Keep your hands in your pockets when walking through tourist areas. If someone manages to tie something on you, refuse to pay, remove it immediately, and walk away. They're relying on embarrassment and politeness—don't give them either. If they get aggressive, walk into the nearest shop.
Restaurant Bill Padding
Touristy restaurants (especially in La Boca, San Telmo, and Puerto Madero) may add extra items to your bill, charge for bread or water you didn't order, or apply a "tourist tax" service charge without telling you.
The bill is much higher than expected. Items you didn't order appear. The math doesn't add up. "Cubiertos" (cover charge) is inflated.
Always check your bill carefully. Ask about any charges you don't understand. Keep a rough mental tally of what you ordered. If something's wrong, dispute it politely but firmly. Take a photo of the bill if they refuse to correct it. Avoid restaurants with aggressive touts outside—they're the worst offenders.
Apartment Rental Scams
Fake listings on Facebook groups, Craigslist-style sites, or Airbnb. The "owner" asks for a deposit before you see the place, or the apartment doesn't exist, or it's already rented and they keep your money. Another version: legitimate-looking Airbnb that turns out to be a scam.
Prices too good to be true. Pressure to wire money or pay deposit before seeing the place. Owner is "out of the country" or has a convoluted story. No video tour available. The listing photos look like stock images.
Never send money before seeing a place in person. Use established platforms (Airbnb with verified reviews, Booking.com) for short-term stays. For long-term, visit in person, meet the owner/agent, sign a contract, and pay through traceable methods. If it feels off, walk away.
Currency Exchange Scams
Street changers ("arbolitos") who short-change you, give counterfeit bills, or simply run off with your money. Some use slight-of-hand to swap real bills for fake ones during the count. Others quote one rate then "recalculate" after you've handed over cash.
The rate is significantly better than the official rate (suspicious). They rush you or distract you during the count. They want to count the money in a way you can't see clearly. The location is isolated or "just around the corner."
Use reputable exchange houses ("cuevas") with fixed locations and good reviews. Count your money carefully, twice. Don't let them rush you. Learn to recognize real Argentine bills—check for watermarks and security features. Better yet, use Western Union or similar services for large amounts. Never exchange on the street with someone who approaches you.
Neighborhood Safety Reality Check
Palermo
Safety level: Very safe
Palermo is the safest large neighborhood in BA. It's where most expats live, where the wealthy porteños hang out, and where you'll feel most comfortable walking at night. That said, phone snatching happens here too—especially in Palermo Soho around Plaza Serrano. Don't get complacent just because it feels like Europe. Keep your phone in your front pocket, especially when crossing streets (motos love to grab phones from people texting while walking).
Recoleta
Safety level: Safest
Recoleta is the most "European" neighborhood—wide avenues, fancy buildings, embassies everywhere. It's arguably the safest area in the city. You can walk around at any hour and feel fine. The only issue is the occasional scam artist targeting tourists near the cemetery or the parks. But violent crime? Almost unheard of here.
San Telmo
Safety level: Fine during day, careful at night
San Telmo is tourist central during the day and edgy-cool at night. The main streets (Defensa, Estados Unidos) are fine, but the side streets can get sketchy after dark. Plaza Dorrego and the surrounding area are safe enough, but don't wander too far east toward the highway at night. The Sunday market is totally safe—just watch for pickpockets in crowds.
La Boca
Safety level: Tourist area only, don't wander
La Boca is complicated. Caminito—the colorful tourist street—is heavily policed and safe. But step one block in any direction and you're in a different world. The neighborhood has real poverty and real crime. Go see Caminito, take your photos, eat at a tourist restaurant if you must, then leave. Don't explore. Don't think you're going to find the "real" BA by wandering the side streets. You'll find trouble instead.
Retiro
Safety level: Avoid at night (near bus station)
Retiro is a tale of two neighborhoods. The area around Plaza San Martín and the luxury hotels is fine—business district, well policed. But the area around the Retiro bus station is sketchy, especially at night. This is where many of the city's homeless congregate, where drug deals happen openly, and where tourists get targeted. If you're taking a night bus, take an Uber directly to the station, don't arrive early and hang around.
Villa Crespo
Safety level: Up-and-coming, generally safe
Villa Crespo is what Palermo was 15 years ago—trendy, full of young people, great food and nightlife, but still a bit rough around the edges. It's generally safe, especially around the main avenues (Corrientes, Scalabrini Ortiz). The further west you go, the more careful you should be at night. But overall, this is a solid, safe neighborhood where locals actually live.
Puerto Madero
Safety level: Very safe, sterile
Puerto Madero is BA's newest neighborhood—all glass towers, fancy restaurants, and corporate offices. It's extremely safe, heavily policed, and feels completely artificial. The downside: it's boring. No street life, no character, overpriced everything. Safe to walk around at 3am, but you probably won't want to because there's nothing happening.
Practical Safety Tips
The Phone in Front Pocket Rule
This is the single most important safety habit in BA. Your phone goes in your front pocket, never your back pocket, never in your hand while walking, never on the table at a café. Motos (motorcycles) are everywhere, and phone snatching is their specialty. They'll ride by, grab the phone from your hand, and be gone before you process what happened.
If you need to check your phone, step into a shop or against a wall where no one can ride up behind you. Yes, it's annoying. Yes, you'll get used to it.
Don't Wear Flashy Jewelry or Watches
Leave the Rolex at home. Don't wear expensive-looking jewelry. This isn't about being robbed at gunpoint—it's about not making yourself a target for opportunistic theft. A nice watch signals "I have money" to everyone around you, including people you don't want noticing you.
That said, you don't need to dress like a pauper. Normal clothes are fine. Just avoid obvious displays of wealth.
The "No Dar Papaya" Philosophy
Colombians have a saying: "No dar papaya"—don't give papaya. It means don't make yourself an easy target. Don't flash your phone. Don't leave your bag unattended. Don't walk around with your wallet hanging out of your pocket. Don't get so drunk you can't walk straight. Don't wander into obviously dangerous areas.
Most crime in BA is opportunistic. The thief isn't targeting you specifically—they're looking for the easiest mark. Don't be the easiest mark. This isn't victim-blaming; it's practical reality. You can't control crime, but you can control whether you look like a soft target.
Walking at Night Guidelines
- Stick to busy streets: Thieves prefer empty streets. If a street feels too quiet, take a different route.
- Walk with purpose: Looking lost or confused makes you a target. Even if you're lost, walk confidently until you can check your phone in a safe spot.
- Avoid headphones: You need to hear what's happening around you. If you must listen to music, keep one earbud out.
- Don't walk and text: See the phone rule above. This is when you're most vulnerable.
- Trust your gut: If a street or situation feels wrong, it probably is. Cross the street, enter a shop, call an Uber. Don't worry about looking paranoid.
Using ATMs Safely
ATMs are prime spots for crime. Here's how to use them safely:
- Use ATMs inside banks or shopping malls, not standalone machines on the street.
- Check for skimming devices—wiggle the card slot, look for anything unusual.
- Cover the keypad when entering your PIN.
- Don't count your money at the machine. Put it away and count later.
- Be aware of who's around you. If someone is hovering nearby, cancel and find another machine.
- Avoid ATMs at night if possible. If you must, use one in a well-lit, busy area.
Uber vs. Taxis vs. Public Transport
Uber/Cabify: Generally the safest option. Tracked, licensed drivers, no haggling. The downside: sometimes drivers will ask you to sit in front to avoid taxi union conflicts. This is normal and safe.
Taxis: Safe enough, but make sure the meter is running or agree on a price beforehand. Radio taxis (called by phone or app) are safer than street hail taxis. Avoid taxis waiting outside tourist spots—they're the ones most likely to overcharge.
Public transport: The Subte is safe, even at night, though it can get crowded (prime pickpocket territory). Buses are also generally safe but slower. Avoid rush hour if you can—it's unpleasant and higher risk for theft.
What to Do If You're Robbed
First: your life is worth more than your stuff. If someone threatens you with a weapon, give them what they want. Argentina is not the place to be a hero.
If you're robbed:
- Stay calm. Adrenaline will be pumping. Take a breath.
- Get to safety. Move to a populated area, a shop, a hotel lobby.
- Don't chase them. You won't catch them, and you might get hurt.
- Cancel your cards immediately. Call your bank's emergency number. Most banks have 24/7 international lines.
- File a police report if needed for insurance. See below for the reality of this process.
- Contact your embassy if your passport was stolen. They can issue an emergency travel document.
Emergency Information
Emergency Numbers
Embassy Contacts
Keep your embassy's contact info saved in your phone. They can help with lost/stolen passports, emergency travel documents, and contacting family if needed. Most embassies also have emergency hotlines for after-hours situations.
US Embassy: +54-11-5777-4533 (emergency after hours)
UK Embassy: +54-11-4808-2200
Canadian Embassy: +54-11-4808-1000
Australian Embassy: +54-11-4779-4100
How to Report a Crime (And Why You Might Not Want To)
Here's the reality: reporting a crime in Argentina is often more trouble than it's worth for minor incidents. The police are underpaid, undertrained, and often unhelpful. You could spend hours at a police station filling out paperwork in Spanish, only to be told there's nothing they can do.
For minor theft (phone, wallet), many locals don't even bother reporting it. The police report ("denuncia") is mainly useful for insurance claims. If you don't need it for insurance, consider whether it's worth your time.
That said, if you were the victim of a violent crime, definitely report it. And if you need that police report for insurance, here's how:
- Go to the nearest police station ("comisaría"). Tourist police stations are better for foreigners—they often have English speakers.
- Bring your passport and any documentation of what was stolen.
- Be patient. The process is slow and bureaucratic.
- Get multiple copies of the report. You'll need them for insurance.
Getting a Police Report for Insurance
Most travel insurance requires a police report to process theft claims. Here's what you need to know:
- Report the theft within 24-48 hours if possible. Insurance companies get suspicious of delayed reports.
- Be specific about what was stolen, when, and where. Include serial numbers if you have them.
- Get the report in Spanish (original) and ask if they can provide an English translation. If not, you may need to get it translated for your insurance.
- Take photos of the report. Keep the original safe.
- Some insurance companies accept online reports filed through the police website. Check if this is an option—it's much easier than going to the station.
Health Emergencies
Guardia vs. Emergency Room
In Argentina, "guardia" is the emergency room/urgent care. Every hospital has one. They're required by law to treat emergencies regardless of ability to pay or insurance status. However, the quality varies dramatically between public and private hospitals.
When to Call SAME (107)
SAME (Sistema de Atención Médica de Emergencias) is Buenos Aires' emergency medical service. Call 107 for:
- Serious injuries
- Chest pain or difficulty breathing
- Severe allergic reactions
- Unconsciousness
- Any life-threatening situation
They'll dispatch an ambulance. Response times vary but are generally reasonable in the central neighborhoods.
Private vs. Public Emergency Care
Public hospitals (hospitales públicos): Free for everyone, including foreigners. The quality is hit-or-miss. Some are excellent (Hospital de Clínicas, Hospital Fernández). Others are overcrowded and underfunded. Expect long waits for non-emergencies.
Private hospitals/clinics: Much better experience if you can pay or have insurance. Swiss Medical, Hospital Alemán, Hospital Italiano, and Sanatorio Güemes are all excellent. You'll get faster service, better facilities, and often English-speaking staff. But you'll need to pay upfront or show insurance.
For anything serious, go private if you can. The difference in care quality is significant.
Travel Insurance That Actually Works
Not all travel insurance is created equal. Here's what to look for:
- Direct billing: The best policies have agreements with local hospitals so you don't have to pay upfront and wait for reimbursement.
- 24/7 hotline: You want to be able to call and get pre-authorization for treatment at any hour.
- Medical evacuation coverage: If something serious happens, you want the option to be evacuated to your home country.
- No "adventure sports" exclusions: If you're planning to do anything active, make sure it's covered.
Recommended providers with good Argentina coverage: World Nomads, SafetyWing, IMG Global. Read the fine print before you buy.
Recommended Private Hospitals
- Hospital Alemán — Recoleta, excellent reputation, English-speaking staff
- Hospital Italiano — Almagro, top-tier care, many English speakers
- Swiss Medical Center — Multiple locations, premium care
- Sanatorio Güemes — Recoleta, high quality, foreigner-friendly
Final Thoughts
Buenos Aires is not a dangerous city. It's a big city, with big city problems. Petty theft exists. Scams exist. But violent crime against tourists is rare, and most people visit without any issues at all.
The key is awareness, not fear. Don't let safety concerns ruin your trip. Don't stay in your apartment because you're worried about going out. Use common sense, follow the tips above, and you'll be fine.
I've lived here for years. I've walked home alone at 3am dozens of times. I've taken the Subte at midnight. I've left my laptop in cafés (don't do this). And I've never been robbed, never been assaulted, never had anything worse than an attempted scam that I saw through immediately.
BA is a wonderful city. Don't let fear keep you from experiencing it.